Plans change

I wake up at 5:53 am, seven minutes before the alarm on my phone is set to wake me. The sky looks clear and for a few seconds I believe that Nandu and Chamu will accompany me to Hiramani glacier, which I’m excited about since it’s not on the map of Kumaon. After those few seconds pass, I remember the deep feeling that these guys are all talk and despite the nice feeling I had from sharing utta with the goatherd, I am looking forward to leaving these guys to be on my own. The scenery somehow is more magnificent when there is no one telling me how magnificent the scenery is.

‘The jeep is coming,’ Chamu says. I’m not ready to leave. I could either wait on more hour for another jeep or walk from Leti to Sama, the latter having both economic and health benefits. After walking for some time I spot a jeep turning around in a small village which I mistake for Sama. He picks me up and w argue that he will take me to Kalek for Rs. 30 after he initially asks for Rs. 150. He drops me at Sama and says it will cost me Rs. 200 fo him to take me to Kalek, 3 km away where I can catch the trail to Sikar Mandir (temple), another 6km walk up a mountain. I pay him for cheating me and walk from Sama to Kalek where I have omelette, chapatis and chai while I learn a few more Hindi words.

This pilgrimage is an arduous task. My pack is weighing me down and I’m continually sweating. Something has to go to make this pack lighter.

resting on the way to Sikar

The trek up to Sikar is beautiful, but I’m not in shape yet, so I cannot fully enjoy it unless I enjoy the pain little and think about how much more endurance and strength I’m building with each heave towards the summit.

Sikar Mandir entrance

Tige, tige, they keep telling me. Besides the babji, there are four other men at the Mandir. I see them pouring a new concrete ground and I wonder how long they work there and how often and who pays them for their work, but I don’t know the words in Hindi that I need to ask these questions. I also would like to spend more time with baba, but he doesn’t seem interested in this foreigner. He just wants me to relax.


Please help me promote my new organization which is raising funds to build toilets in Nepal. Click on the Facebook link below and click here: Charpi Development Organization

Charpi Development Organization


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